Rooney Mara‘s influence on Francisco Costa’s fall Calvin Klein collection was clear: Models wore austere black-banged hairstyles evocative of the star’s recent red-carpet appearances. Runway looks echoed the same Mara-as-muse sentiment with modest silhouettes in leather and wool that were both demure yet strikingly powerful. As always, Costa played with architectural details, but this time he went mathematical with bell-curved leather frocks, peplum jackets, and cinched-in waists. Dresses with sheer panels on top and full, calf-length skirts on bottom were sexy without being too revealing. Staying true to the brand’s simple aesthetic, Costa worked with a color palette of black, white, grey, and occasional pops of red-orange. Built-in volume and metal-banded belts kept the longer hemlines and dense fabrics from looking too heavy. As a brand renowned for its timeless design and simplicity, Calvin Klein shows us, once again, that classic silhouettes can still be made to look edgy and modern.